Z/S twists knitting crocheting – How can yarn twisting spoil knitted and crocheted textile works?

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – Usually, singles are counter-clockwise (like a Z). After that, ply more strands together in a clockwise direction (like an S), to prevent excessive curling. However, spinning the single S and then plying multiple strands into a Z suits left-handed knitters and right-handed crocheters. But, with proper information, contemporary textile designers can find effective ideas for textile projects, tools, and procedures.

After the previous post, we know how to spin and recognize the direction of yarn (Z or S). Twisting the fibers locks them together, preventing them from coming apart. However, every handspinner knows a more complicated story behind this simple fact. Twists can vary in degree and direction. High twist makes yarn strong and durable, while low twist results in soft and warm yarn. Layers of twist in singles, and in plies within the textile structure itself, greatly impact the life span of a textile. The knitters and crocheters know this well.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – Functional principles of twisting yarn for textile projects.

The majority of commercial hand-crafting yarn is for knitting by right-handers.  S-Twist favors the knitting process because the moves reinforce S-Twist, keeping the plies coherent and the strand stable.  With the same yarn, it happens differently when crocheting a rightie. Because the yarn wraps around the crochet hook in the opposite direction of the yarn`s direction, and crochet stitches have height and may contain multiple yarn overs each time, plied threads tend to separate.

Jersey stitch, in English. Stockinette stitch is the basis of knitwear. Alternating rows of knit and purl stitches (face and reverse) create a smooth “V” pattern that runs vertically upward. Purl stitches appear more horizontally, with little ‘bumps’.

Next image: Knitting – the working needle goes into the stitch.  Wrap yarn around the right needle from back to front, pull it forward, and create a new loop on the right needle.

Previous image: In crochet, working clockwise (Z) movements with the yarn in the same direction, making additional turns maintains the twist. So, Z-direction yarn is suitable for work.

Matching yarn direction and execution in both textile techniques (knitting and crocheting)

In most cases, spinning mills spin strands in the Z direction, then multiple threads join and ply in the S direction. That suits most needs and typically benefits right-handed knitters and left-handed crocheters. On the contrary, right-handed crocheters and left-handed knitters prefer the Z twist. However, almost 99% of the yarn is S-twisted as a final product. So, in many cases, we need to adjust the technique to make it work.

The choice of yarn concerning twist direction (S or Z) corresponds with the movements in each technique (knitting and crochet). In the so-called Western knitting for right-handers and crochet for left-handers, yarn wraps around the needle or hook counterclockwise (S). This causes additional twisting to the working yarn. So, S-twist yarn in the same direction corresponds with those techniques. The opposite case is Eastern knitting and right-handed crocheters. Because it is where working yarn moves clockwise (Z). This motion adds twists to Z yarns, which the Z-direction makes convenient. You will see it in the List below. But when you have fine yarn, in addition to the direction, for quality handwork, you must maintain an even tensioned thread during work.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – Let’s briefly discuss what to remember when knitting!

Two basic styles are common concerns about how to hold the yarn while knitting: the English knitting style and the Continental.

English knitting, or throwing, is in the Western style. Righties carry the yarn to be knit into the fabric with their right hand. For a new stitch, they must leave the working needle to wrap the yarn around it. The second name relates to the motion, throwing the yarn around the needle. Keeping a slight tension, they pull the yarn through the stitch on the left needle and slide the stitch from the left to the right needle.

In the Continental knitting, the yarn thread is in the hand opposite to the working needle. Right-handed knitters hold both needles with their corresponding hands. But the working thread is in the left hand. For a new stitch, would scoop the yarn and pull a new stitch with the working needle.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – Basic models, Western and Eastern stitch mouth.

Another key criterion is stitch orientation, i.e., stitch mouth, where one of the stitch legs is in front of the needle and the other behind. This defines two basic knitting models: Western (counter-clockwise) and Eastern (clockwise). When we look at those two sets, we can see differences. The Western model’s row finishes with the thread in the front leg, but the Eastern Stitch Mount finishes behind the needle. In practice, sometimes Western style implies (leading side of the stitch in front), and Eastern style (leading side in back).

In Western knitting, the right foot is on the front side of the work, ie, on the needle closest to the knitter. If you hold the yarn with your right hand (English knitting or throwing style) or in the left (Continental or picking style), you would still practice the Western model. Sometimes, it’s a counter-clockwise mouth. Because in that position you wrap yarn, from behind the needle to the front, between the two needles.

In the Western mouth, stitches are oriented to the left, with the right leg in front of the needle and the left behind.

Eastern knitters have the right-hand leg of their stitches on the far side of the needle, work into the back of all their stitches, and take the yarn around the needle in the opposite direction to form a new stitch. Eastern-stylers knit into the loop without twisting because the leading leg is behind the needle. The knitter wraps yarn overhand on the needle (clockwise) to form a new stitch and pulls it through the old stitch. That is, hence the term uncrossed method for Eastern-style knitting.

In the Eastern mouth, stitches are oriented to the right, with the left leg in front of the needle and the right leg behind.

The roles of twist direction at the Knit Stitches: Effects of yarn directions on stitch structures in knitting.

The supply offers yarn varieties depending on the spun structure of the yarn. But the main types of threading emphasize: conventional, single, cabled, and multi-strand. They cause the yarn to lie in different positions after knitting. This is especially noticeable in stockinette stitch, where you can see two halves of a V forming each stitch on the right side of the piece. Stockinette knit stitch has uses, both in handwork and machine knitting.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting –  Appearance caused by opposite twist directions in the same piece

If yarns have opposite twist directions, the same piece gets a visible difference as a finished item. The fibers aligned in a different direction reflect the light differently, so they look shaded. The same dye lot, but looks nuanced with shades. If you were to knit a sweater in flat pieces and sew, the sleeve color probably looks different because the yarn is going in a different direction. So, it is best to have all the yarn for a project prepared the same way.

Firstly, according to the Convention, knitting yarn is mainly Z, and plies S. However, knowing the rules and skills on how to break them, and following personal design, an artist creates an original piece. For example, knitting a sweater in “color work,” i.e, “shadow patterns” using the same dye for the whole quantity, spun in opposite directions, as a design method. This would be very subtle, but noticeable. It would be an interesting experiment that works best in medium to light colors.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – Thanks to the question by “confused” knitter (Julie)

Patty (Patty Lyons) explained on her blog, AskPatty.com, the essence of the phenomenon, which can be pretty confusing. When looking at the yarn leaning to the left, the ply is almost completely horizontal, and the right lean makes it almost completely vertical. Now, imagine all those left-stitch legs stacked up one on the other. What eye is perceiving is the plies. Now, at the stockinette, you can’t see the individual stitches of yarn leaning to the left. Rather, we watch a single vertical row.

These attached photos (above) provide clear visual confirmation of Patty`s explanation.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – How does the twist direction of yarn affect left-handers’ knitting?

As Tutorials generally assume the right-hand dominant, those may be useless for the remaining minority. Righties consider left-handed knitting as mirror knitting or reverse knitting. Such may be helpful for lefties. Left-handed knitters work by moving stitches from the right needle to the left. Also, the solution is the appropriate technique. So, if using Continental knitting, one would work from the left needle, but hold the yarn in the right hand. This means lefties have the leading leg behind the needle, but the other leg sitting in front of the needle.

Here, we can see an example of basic Stockinette stitch with a dominant left-hand

How does the S vs Z Twist affect crocheting?

Crochet and Crocheting are typical nouns or verbs describing the creation of specific textiles from yarn with a hooked needle. Although both techniques require minimal working tools, crocheting is much simpler. According to the project, a suitable needle with a hook is sufficient. Different knits require very few combinations of needles. From the simplest, with two to five needles for circular knitting. Those are just the basic features. If we are developing the issues, the differences between knitting and crocheting go much deeper!

For example, concerning twists, most yarns are in S-twist. However, for right-handed individuals, crocheting works against this twist, adding a Z twist. This means you’re un-twisting the yarn as you go, which can cause it to split. On the other hand, the left-handed crocheter adds twists to the same yarn, even to over-twisting.

Working with the yarn counter-clockwise (S) and manipulating the needles in the same direction (S) adds twist, which stabilizes the yarn. Right-handed crochet requires (Z) yarn because clockwise working motions (Z) add twist to the yarn. In both cases, movements follow each other’s direction.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – In crocheting, handling (Z) the plies of the yarn (S) easily separate, but why?

The answer lies already in the subtitle: because in crochet, the direction of the working movements is clockwise (Z) with the yarn (S), which reduces twisting and prevents the twisted threads from unraveling. The S-yarn unfolds automatically with crocheting movements in the Z-direction. Such a wrong choice of yarn is due to not knowing the aspects that we are now analyzing. Or simply if it relies on the yarn market dominated by S-yarn, intended for the potential majority of right-handed knitters.

Here, two images illustrate that faults occur for S-yarn, due to the crochet movement in Z-direction, the technique runs opposite, which automatically splits the yarn. However, the third image shows that the yarn Z-twist direction is in the same direction as crochet (such as yarning over). That means preventing the splits and enforcing the twist.

But what happens to left-handed crocheters?

Almost everything outlined concerns right-handed crocheters. A right-handed crocheter works in rows from right to left and in the round anticlockwise. But, for left-handers, it is reversed. Lefties use S yarns because they find it easier to crochet with this direction. As both crocheting moves and yarn spun direction are the same, clockwise.

The hook is in the left hand, used to make loops of yarn from the right index finger, and insert it into the chain with yarn over from the hook, and pull the yarn through the chain stitch. From yarn, with a simple hooked needle, a crocheter develops a decorative net linking stitches.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – Yes, S-twist direction is a favourite yarn solution for left-handed crocheters! 

Experienced textile artist and scientist Katrina King conducted an experiment that clarified the subject. She chose finest wool (40% Navajo Churro and 60% fine Merino). When finished, she washed them together in a bath of Soak and let them hang to dry.

As a left-handed crafter, she wanted to make sure if the spin and ply direction would affect handspun yarn. She has spun equal quantities of fiber. One S twist and Z ply, while the other has Z twist and S ply.

As a dominant left-hander, when crocheting, she had to turn around and use her right hand to crochet swatches with yarns in different directions. With her right hand, she needed more time. Working S twist, Z piled was more difficult. The twist tends to separate. Then, with Z twisted, S plied yarn was much easier to work with. We can also see that the plies did not separate, the stitch location was easy to see, and the overall stitch definition is cleaner in this swatch. This personal experience will be the best help in finding solutions for his future projects.

Z/S twists knitting crocheting – For now, final thoughts on Knitting and Crocheting.

Although both techniques enable aesthetically similar patterns to characterize essential differences. Done by hand, whether sitting or walking, from textile yarn, which is almost the only thing they have in common.

Crochet uses one hook to pull loops through loops, resulting in crochet fabric. Crochet has only one active loop at a time, and stitches resemble knots. Knitting uses two needles to pull loops through loops of previous stitches, numerous active stitches simultaneously. Knitted stitches resemble a ‘v’ shape.

Knit with interlocking loops enables stretching. But crochet, like knots, is solid, and stretching is minimal. So, knitting suits items to fit the body, but crochet things to keep their shape.

With the yarn S direction and using proper technique, a left-handed crochet project would be the same as a right-handed project, in mirror image.

I’m closing,

because I think this is the right time and place for it. I believe that with these two contributions, I have somewhat rounded out this approach to the extensive topic of yarn directions in textiles. In the previous posts, I presented illustrations of the functions of Z/S warp directions in the early stages of fabric design. And here are the basic effects in knitting, as well as crocheting. Which I hope will be of interest, especially to those involved in weaving, knitting, crocheting, and other textile techniques.

Until the next reading, best regards, Branka on Textiles